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General Chat / Re: Inner Rod Lubrication
« Last post by kgstewar on Today at 07:47:45 PM »Super lube with teflon. Simple.
Recent Posts
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General Chat / In search of 2 Red Players - Mirco Championship Soccer - 70's
« Last post by buzzfarm on Today at 02:00:08 PM »Hi all -
I just picked up a mint condition Mirco table. Can't believe how well the previous owner took care of this table. Only imperfections are chipped hats on two red players.No lucky on Ebay or Craigslist thus far.
Looking for replacement men. Any players or referrals are greatly appreciated!
Thanks in advance.
I just picked up a mint condition Mirco table. Can't believe how well the previous owner took care of this table. Only imperfections are chipped hats on two red players.No lucky on Ebay or Craigslist thus far.
Looking for replacement men. Any players or referrals are greatly appreciated!
Thanks in advance.
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General Chat / Inner Rod Lubrication
« Last post by superreggie on Yesterday at 12:08:13 PM »How best to lubricate the inner rods on a Rene Pierre with rubber bits at the end? Please for the love of god keep it simple. It's kind of stunning how hard it is to find a simple answer online. Bonzini recommends an oil with teflon on inner and outer rods. Some people say to clean and then lubricate the inner rods with WD40, but other people freak out and say this is bad for the rubber. Some people say clean them and use the silicone stuff. What's the final word?
So I just scored this Rene Pierre for $100. It looked like it had been left outside for a while, but I took it all apart, cleaned it up, got the balls returning properly, removed the outer rust from the rods. But I'm new to this telescoping rod business. I used a spray lithium grease on the inner rods, silicone on the outer, but the inners aren't great.
So I just scored this Rene Pierre for $100. It looked like it had been left outside for a while, but I took it all apart, cleaned it up, got the balls returning properly, removed the outer rust from the rods. But I'm new to this telescoping rod business. I used a spray lithium grease on the inner rods, silicone on the outer, but the inners aren't great.
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General Chat / Tornado T3000 goal frame chipping
« Last post by FOOZUL on October 20, 2017, 07:50:45 PM »Is it me or others are experiencing too. I have a Tornado T3000 and I just noticed the MDF goal frame cutout started to chip specially on the inner section facing the goal box deflector. If Tornado claims they're all about detail and quality why they don't do anything about this problem. Quality tables like Lionhart and Ullrich have plastic goal frames/sleeves, why Valley Dynamo doesn't try that? What can I apply to the goal cutout to protect and prevent it from chipping?
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General Chat / Re: Score Keepers
« Last post by kgstewar on October 18, 2017, 02:06:04 PM »Couple questions that should be easy, but turns out they're not.
1. My scorekeepers have the numbers 1 through 10. Which way do I install them? I've seen pictures online of both ways!?!
I'm thinking that if you're a little foosballer standing anywhere on the little table, you should be able to look at either end and read the numbers right-side-up.
2. My goalie obviously defends my goal. When I'm scored upon, I retrieve the ball and serve for the next point. But which counter gets incremented? The one at the other end, right?
These may seem trivial, but may as well do it right.
As an extra, which cup-holder is mine? The one behind my goal or the other one that's closer to my length of the table?
1. The "1" should be closest to you. (see #2)
2. Your score is counted on the scorer that is behind your goalie
3. I'd use both of them!
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General Chat / Score Keepers
« Last post by RedAndBlue on October 18, 2017, 10:17:59 AM »Couple questions that should be easy, but turns out they're not.
1. My scorekeepers have the numbers 1 through 10. Which way do I install them? I've seen pictures online of both ways!?!
I'm thinking that if you're a little foosballer standing anywhere on the little table, you should be able to look at either end and read the numbers right-side-up.
2. My goalie obviously defends my goal. When I'm scored upon, I retrieve the ball and serve for the next point. But which counter gets incremented? The one at the other end, right?
These may seem trivial, but may as well do it right.
As an extra, which cup-holder is mine? The one behind my goal or the other one that's closer to my length of the table?
1. My scorekeepers have the numbers 1 through 10. Which way do I install them? I've seen pictures online of both ways!?!
I'm thinking that if you're a little foosballer standing anywhere on the little table, you should be able to look at either end and read the numbers right-side-up.
2. My goalie obviously defends my goal. When I'm scored upon, I retrieve the ball and serve for the next point. But which counter gets incremented? The one at the other end, right?
These may seem trivial, but may as well do it right.
As an extra, which cup-holder is mine? The one behind my goal or the other one that's closer to my length of the table?
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General Chat / Re: New to site, Screwed
« Last post by Slacquer6@live.com on October 18, 2017, 08:56:36 AM »Thanks for the advice! I will check into these suggestions.
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General Chat / Re: New to site, Screwed
« Last post by jerrydiday on October 18, 2017, 02:00:40 AM »Here is a video on straightening rods. It is kind of a hack but basically the rods can be re aligned if you find the bend and bend it the other way. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VpYAAlP85EQ
I agree with Pat. If the playing field is not warped or the goals chewed away at the sides the table will probably be great.
I agree with Pat. If the playing field is not warped or the goals chewed away at the sides the table will probably be great.
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General Chat / Re: New to site, Screwed
« Last post by Pat on October 18, 2017, 01:38:01 AM »Metal doesn't warp at normal temperatures or because of water. The bars were most likely bent from playing or transport.
If the 5 and goalie rods are bent a bit it won't affect play. It's very important to have a straight 3 rod. A slightly bent 2 rod won't make a big difference in the play quality, in fact many 2 rods are slightly bent due to the high amount of torque that's possible due to their length. However, if the 2 rod is extremely bent, it's worth replacing.
I would also get new bearings for the 3 rod.
The most important things are a non-warped playing field and goals that are not blown out. If these are ok then I would recommend keeping the table. I've seen brown marbles that are played constantly last for 20 years.
If the 5 and goalie rods are bent a bit it won't affect play. It's very important to have a straight 3 rod. A slightly bent 2 rod won't make a big difference in the play quality, in fact many 2 rods are slightly bent due to the high amount of torque that's possible due to their length. However, if the 2 rod is extremely bent, it's worth replacing.
I would also get new bearings for the 3 rod.
The most important things are a non-warped playing field and goals that are not blown out. If these are ok then I would recommend keeping the table. I've seen brown marbles that are played constantly last for 20 years.
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General Chat / help identifing old table
« Last post by docnutz on October 17, 2017, 09:24:33 PM » I have an old table from the 70's or before and would like to figure out how old it really is. I can't read the name stamped on the bottom but I can read CS-3A serial number 5115 can anyone help? Oh and I will play anyone one handed true rules no spins. I have never lost on this table!! It has been in the family since early 80's