You might try a speed buffer, using a small cloth or foam disk with a drill or Dremel-type tool, and not an abrasive surface disk. Just a serious buffing or rubdown, in order not to remove what's left of the smooth plating. You can also use your own "elbow grease" if you have to, like those detailers do when they "throw" the color on a faded area of your car/van without scratching it, using a duster cloth or chamois.
I recommend a standard 5wt (if I recall correctly) or lighter clear silicone oil from your local hobby shop, OR the prescribed lubricant for the tables you can order from this site, foosball.com. I've successfully used WD-40 FOR YEARS to clean the bearings without disassembling them (and even with the rods on) and it dries quickly after cleaning off with a towel or rag, although there are those on here who swear by plain soap and water as their solution, with thorough drying to prevent water getting into the (morticed?) bearing holes. If you have screw-on type bearings, put them on firmly but not too tightly to maintain freeplay on the rods. Loose bearings will degrade and destroy them much more quickly, as will any loose player figures. You might also use the table surface cleaner to clean the player figures so they do not transfer dirt or grime to the balls.
I've used Formula 409, which is ok, but it leaves a very thin, slick coating for a while on the table top, so I prefer plain Glass Plus, Windex or other glass/fiberglass ammonia cleaner. The product Grease-Away also seems to work fine without the slippery residue, and I've used that to removed clustered grime and dirt, too. The product "LA Totally AWESOME" commercial cleaner in the HomeDepot stylle sprayer bottle has also worked for me as well. I try to clean the inside goal and internal runnel areas too, to keep the balls clean.
If there is continuous or intermittent airflow around the table, cover it with cloth or even get a utilitarian table-top to use it as an auxiliary or game table when not in use. An extremely coldly A/C'd environment will also lead to more broken plastic, as the table and parts dry out, so the cover is a good idea. Don't use motor oil or teflon powder based lockup removers. Lemon Pledge-type furniture polish on the rods does not work as well as silicone spray or silicone oil. Baby oil smells and dries up too quickly, as does a greasy LDL-laden stick of SlimJim. Water, juice, spit or beer are the worst for the rods.
I've maintained several dozen tables of all types on 4 continents for 35+ years. Keep them clean and lubed. Have fun.
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